In sewing and fashion designs, the pattern is the template from which clothing parts are traced to the fabric before being cut and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and sometimes made of stronger materials such as cardboard or cardboard if they are to be stronger to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes condensed into one word Patternmaking , but can also be written pattern (-) create or truncate pattern .
The pattern of sloper (sewing house) or block pattern (industrial production) is the archetype tailored to the needs from which patterns for different styles can be developed. The process of resizing the finished pattern is called grading .
Some companies specialize in the sale of pre-valued patterns directly to consumers who will stitch patterns at home. Manufacturers of commercial clothing make their own patterns at home as part of their design and production processes, typically using at least one special pattern maker. In bespoke clothes, slopers and patterns should be developed for each client, while for commercial production, the pattern will be made to fit some standard body sizes.
Video Pattern (sewing)
Patterning
A pattern builder typically uses one of two methods to create a pattern.
The flat-pattern method is where all the patterns are arranged on the flat surface of the measurement, using ruler, curve and straight edge. The pattern maker will also use various tools such as notch, drill and piercer to mark the pattern. Typically, flat patterns begin with the creation of sloper or block patterns, simple garments mounted on the size of the wearer. For women, this will usually be a gem-neck caster and a narrow skirt, and for men's top sloper and sloper pants. The final sloper pattern is usually made of cardboard or paperboard, with no stitching or style detail (thick paper or cardboard allows for recurring tracking and pattern development of the original sloper). Once the sloper shape has been perfected by creating a series of gimmick clothing called toiles (UK) or muslins (USA), the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many garment styles with various neckline, arm, dart placement, and so on. The method of drafting flat pattern is the most commonly used method in menswear; men's clothing rarely involves draping. There are many pattern-making systems available, but M. Muller & amp; Sohn (http://germanpatternmaking.com) is widely used for its accuracy and is suitable for different body figures.
The draping method involves making a muslin mock-up pattern by clamping the fabric directly on the form, then transferring the muslin outline and marking it to a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
Digitize pattern
Once the paper/fabric patterns are completed, very often pattern makers digitize their patterns for archiving and vendor communication purposes. The previous standard for digitizing is the digitizing tablet. Currently, automatic options such as scanner and camera systems are available.
Installation pattern
Although sewers may choose to use predefined standard sizes on purchased patterns, they may decide to adjust the pattern to better suit the wearer of the garment. There are several ways that can be done.
Making a sewer muslin (also called toile using calico), similar to a garment template, is one of the mounting methods. Muslin materials are inexpensive and easy to use when making quick adjustments by pinning the fabric around the wearer or dress form. Sewers cut the pieces of muslin using the same method they would use for the actual garment, according to a pattern. The muslin pieces then fit together and darts and other adjustments are made. It provides a gutter with measurements to use as a guide for marking pattern cuts and cutting fabrics for apparel.
Pattern grading
Pattern grading is the process of shrinking or enlarging a ready-made pattern to accommodate people of different sizes. The Grading rule determines how patterns increase or decrease to create different sizes. This type of fabric also affects the pattern assessment standards. The cost of pattern assessment is incomplete without considering marker making.
Maps Pattern (sewing)
Standard pattern symbol
Sewing patterns usually include standard symbols and marks that guide the cutter and/or sewer in cutting and assembling pattern pieces. Patterns may use:
- Notch, to indicate:
- Stitch clearance. (not all patterns include benefits)
- Middle lines and other lines that are important to fit like waist, hips, breasts, shoulder tips, etc.
- Placement of the zipper
- Fold the dots for folded seams and facings
- Appropriate points, especially for long stitching or curling or stitching easily. For example, Armscye will usually be grooved at the point where ease should start being added to the arm cap. Usually there is no ease through the armpits.
- Circular holes, possibly made by stabbing or circular blows, to indicate:
- Top of the dart
- Angle, as it is sutured, ie without any suture looseness
- Pocket placement, or other detail placement like trimming
- Button holes and buttons
- Long arrow, drawn on the pattern, to indicate:
- Grainline, or how the pattern should be parallel to the fabric. The arrows are meant to align parallel to the straight grains of the fabric. Long arrows with arrows at both ends indicate that one of two orientations is possible. An arrow with a head may indicate that the fabric has a direction to consider, such as a pattern that must face upward when the wearer is standing.
- A double line indicating where patterns can be extended or shortened for different fit
- Dot, triangle, or square symbol, to provide a "match point" for an adjoining pattern cut, similar to putting a puzzle piece together
Many patterns also have a complete outline for some features, such as for outboard pockets, making it easier to visualize how things work together.
Patterns for manufacturing commercial clothing
Industrial patterning begins with an existing block pattern that most closely resembles the designer's vision. Patterns cut from oak tag paper (manila paper), perforated with holes and stored by hanging with special hooks. This pattern is first checked for accuracy, then cut from the sample fabric and the resulting garment is fit tested. Once the pattern meets the designer's approval, a small production sample sample is created and the style is presented to the buyer in the wholesale market. If the style shows sales potential, this pattern is assessed for size, usually by a computer with a specialized industrial underwear CAD program. After grading, the pattern should be checked; the accuracy of each size and the direct comparison in the laying of the stitching lines is done. After these steps are followed and any errors corrected, this pattern is approved for production. When a manufacturing company is ready to produce a style, all sizes of each part of a given pattern are arranged into marker , usually by computer. The marker is setting all pattern pieces over the area of ​​fabric to be cut that minimizes fabric waste while maintaining the desired lines. It's like the pattern of the pattern from which all the pieces will be cut. The marker is then placed on top of the fabric layer and cut. Commercial bookmarks often include several sets of patterns for popular sizes. For example: a set of Small size, two sets of Medium size and a set of Large size. Once the style is sold and sent to stores - and if it proves to be popular enough - this style pattern will become a block, with the next generation pattern developed from it.
Retail patterns
House sewing patterns are commonly printed on tissue paper and are sold in packages containing instructions and sewing advice for fabrics and trims. They are also available on the Internet as downloadable files. Sewers can print patterns at home or take electronic files to copy and print businesses. Main pattern companies such as Burda Style and independent designers such as Amy Butler distribute sewing patterns as electronic files as alternatives, or as a replacement, pre-printed package. Modern patterns are available in a variety of prices, sizes, styles, and levels of sewing skills, to meet consumer needs.
The majority of modern home sewing patterns contain many sizes in one pattern. Once the pattern is removed from a package, you can bypass the pattern based on the size you want to create or you can maintain the pattern by tracing it. This pattern is traced to the fabric using one of several methods. In one method, tracing paper with removable ink on one side is placed between the pattern and the fabric. The tracing wheel is moved above the pattern line, moving the mark to the fabric with removable ink by removing or washing. In another method, tracing paper is placed directly above the purchased pattern, and the pieces are tracked. The pieces are cut, then the tracing paper is pinned and/or smeared onto the fabric. The fabric can then be cut to match the line on tracing paper. Vintage patterns may come with small holes punched in pattern paper. This is to create tailor tailor, a kind of stain where the threads are sewn into the fabric in a short time to be used as a guide for cutting and assembling pieces of cloth.
In addition to depicting ready-made garments, envelope patterns typically include graphs for size, number of pieces included in the pattern, and suggested fabrics as well as the necessary sewing ideas and supplies.
Ebenezer Butterick created a commercially produced graded sewing pattern in 1863 (based on a scoring system used by Victorian tailors), which originally sold hand-drawn patterns for men's and boys' suits. In 1866, Butterick added a pattern to women's clothing, which remains the heart of today's sewing house market.
Patterns for Virtual Outfits
The virtual outfit is a digital outfit used for video game characters (Avatar/Model 3d), in animated films and commercials, and as a double digital outfit in movies like "The Hobbit", for dangerous scenes or when it is impossible to use real-life actors. The virtual outfit is generally also used to dress the player Avatar in the World of Maya games as well as to create virtual clothing sales in the 3D market such as Second Life, Renderosity, DAZ 3D, Sansar, and more. The additional use for digital clothing is for VR and AI technologies, online store catalogs from fashion retailers, and even for recreational crime scene scenes.
The virtual outfit can be made with traditional 3D sculptures that typically use software programs such as ZBrush or Marvelous Designer software programs, which are a pattern-based garment making tool for making special clothes for 3D/Avatar models. Outstanding designers also have the benefits of being dynamic, meaning, they can be used for animation and support the dynamics of the fabric, so the fabric reacts to motion, the wind blowing on it or the 3d model changes its posture - and adjusts clothes to simulate and mimic the look and feel real life.
Patterns for virtual clothing made in Marvelous Designer (MD) do not need to calculate the margins of extra fabrics for leeway stitches, as required for real life patterns. Digital clothing is never produced in the real world. However, digital clothing requires special fabric arrangements ("Physical Property Settings") to re-create the thickness and stiffness of real-life fabrics such as leather, silk, cotton, denim, etc. So that digital clothing behaves in a realistic way to be desired.
Pattern-based garment-making program Patterns for virtual clothing do not require tailor tailoring education or a sewing experience of a pattern. However, 3D artists do not need to learn to use such programs and master the techniques to sew digital clothing virtually and understand the principles of pattern making and create the correct fabric presets for each type of material. The same outfit can look very different from setting different physical properties. As an alternative, CG artists can obtain tailor-made 3D dress patterns tailored for programs such as MD.
Gallery
See also
- Convenience
- French curve
- History of sewing patterns
- Sew
- Sewing Machine
- Swap
- Tailor
- Clothes terms
References
External links
- Patternmaking: Past to Present
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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